Q: I have a 15 month neutered male Pembroke Welsh Corgi who had a barking problem when with a group and clapping took place. We have solved that but now he growls instead and acts like a "spoiled child." Any suggestions? This dog is a therapy visitation dog with Pets for Life and also in obedience training and we have no problems except when he is being corrected for barking.

A: Hmm, that's an interesting problem. Let's try to make a new connection in his mind with the clapping. I have a tennis ball with a rope through it in my therapy dog bag, because my herding-breed therapy dog adores a tennis ball. I can always direct his attention into happy times by tossing that ball directly to his mouth. The rope through it causes it to drop and stay on the ground, instead of bouncing or rolling out of control if the dog or I fail to hang on to it. I give him at least 3 tosses, which sustains his attention on the game long enough to break it completely out of whatever he was thinking about before.

Set up clapping situations. Even just you a couple of friends and family members could simulate it for training purposes, and I would add some whooping and hollering, too. I suspect your dog's concept may be that the people are "barking," and he wants to join them. A ball will have the added benefit of occupying his mouth, as well as his eyes and body. That's pretty much the whole dog!

To make a tennis ball with a rope through it, just use a sharp knife to cut a small "X" on each side of a ball. Bend wire, such as a wire coat hanger, into a flat loop on one end. Jam the loop all the way through the ball. Thread your rope--I like 1/4" braided nylon--through the wire loop, then drag it back through the ball. Tie a big, double knot on one side of the ball, and a loop for your wrist on the other.

When you've decided how long the rope needs to be, seal the ends of the braided nylon material with a burning match. Many other types of material can be substituted for the rope, including leather or nylon webbing--good use for a chewed dog leash! 

Now--here's a warning on the timing of your intervention with the barking--do not wait until he barks or growls at the clapping and then throw him the ball. He might then feel he's being rewarded for making the noise. The ball must come before he has time to make any noise.

If he starts to make noise before you can throw the ball, try doggy calisthenics as a happy-looking penalty you can use even in front of a group. It's just "[His name], Sit!" "[Name], Down!" etc. 3 sets in a row, with praise for each one. Use a happy voice and hand signals simultaneously. He'll probably be too busy doing this to growl. Then you could give him the ball as a reward for his calisthenics, if he has managed to stay quiet.

Let me know how this works. I love to see therapy dog handlers turn to training solutions for difficulties that occur on visits. Training happens in therapy dog work, whether we plan it or not. If we direct this training, both during and between the visits, we can keep many dogs and handlers in service who are otherwise lost to problems that might have been easy to solve with just a little help. Keep in touch!

Update:

Q:  Kathy, I have read your comments on correcting the barking behavior of our Pembroke Corgi when guests laugh, clap and talk animatedly. I guess I still don't understand how you construct the tennis ball on a rope, and also I don't understand how you can anticipate spontaneous eruptions among guests. Gwennie is a very loving dog, but also very problematic when interesting guests come.

Secondly, she is a little crazy in the car. Loves to go with us, but bites the safety straps, and is ever alert. Barks of course when we leave the car or when someone else approaches.

Thirdly, she is overly attentive when other dogs come. She does respond to my commands, but only for a few moments and then back to the guest, human or canine. She is a good companion to my wife who is disabled, but a real problem when visitors come. Thanks.

A: Sounds like the best solution will be to bring in someone in person to help with the training. Corgis look like small dogs, but they're really not, bred for a very big job of handling those cows! Your veterinarian can probably recommend a local trainer or behavior specialist to work with you.

The training has to be done to the point that the dog is so conditioned, she can hear you and obey you in spite of great excitement. It takes some diligence--no harshness, just good practice--to bring a dog to this point. Corgis are very responsive when trained, but very high drive, so predictably can get into behavior problems without sufficient training.

If the dog is getting out of control with guests, confinement to a crate or another room is probably necessary until the training can be brought to an adequate level to maintain control. You may need to just put her into the other room before you even answer the door.

In the car, experts all agree that, for their own safety, dogs need to ride either in a crate, or in a doggy harness attached to the seat belt straps. A crate is easier to manage for most people than getting all the harness straps on and off a wriggling dog.

If other dogs are going to come into the home with your dog (at my house, I do not allow this, for the safety of my own dogs), you may wish to use confinement for her during their visits, too. It's totally normal for her to get all excited about greeting other dogs--or people, for that matter. That is how dogs work out their social arrangements, with a very wild greeting ceremony. It takes a lot of training for the average dog to be able to meet guests courteously, especially a high-drive breed such as the Corgi.

The tennis ball on a rope is a toy you can buy, and you might prefer to just do that, rather than making them. I make them for my dogs to save money! I use 1/4" thick braided nylon rope from the hardware store. The necessary tools are a sharp utility or craft knife, and a wire coat hanger.

First I take the knife and make a hole in the ball, by cutting a small "X" shape. Then I cut another hole on the other side of the ball, positioned so the rope will be able to go straight through. I bend the coat hanger into a straight end, then bend that end into a loop--shaped like the eye of a huge needle--and flatten the loop. I push that loop through both holes in the ball, all the way out the other side.

Then I thread the braided nylon rope through the loop on the end of the wire clothes hanger, and pull the hanger back through the ball, which brings the rope with it. I can adjust the rope at this point, so I have a big knot on one side to keep the rope from going back through the hole, and on the other side a loop, for easy handling by a person.

The ends of the rope are sealed from fraying by holding a match to them briefly. You can see the nylon melt to form a secure end. Now you have a ball the dog will enjoy catching, chasing and fetching, but when it falls on the floor, it will not bounce very high or roll very far. This makes it much easier to use for your own purposes in directing the dog's attention where you want it.

You might find it much easier just to look for a toy like this in a pet store. Since I already had the basics around the house, I didn't have to buy anything to make some of the toys. They are very popular with trainers these days, because they are so practical. Very popular with the dogs, too! I do not, however, make them for sale, just for my own dear doggies.

I really think you would be wise to get someone to come out to the house and work with you, to help structure the situation so you and your wife can continue to enjoy the dog, and make things smoother and easier on the family and guests. The dog will love training--Corgis thrive on it. And it can be quite enjoyable and therapeutic for the folks involved, too!