cat clawing chair

A cat claws a chair. Illustration by Dr. Wendy Brooks

Declawing (also known as "onychectomy") has probably become the most controversial of all the elective surgical procedures commonly performed by veterinarians. Obviously, cats have claws. Scratching objects serves to mark territory and assist in communicating territorial messages to other cats. Claws serve as an important defense against other animals. Use of claws is natural and part of a cat's normal behavior and biology.

That said, cats are domestic pets for the most part and must live closely with humans if they are to participate in the human-animal bond. Their behavior must be altered to allow this to happen. They are spayed and neutered and must use a box as a toilet. A balance must be struck between each cat and their human owner when it comes to claw use.

While it is normal for cats to scratch things (to mark territory and condition their claws), this behavior can destroy the bond between an owner and their pet cat. Cats, especially adolescent cats, tend to "play rough," scratching their owners, children, or other pets sometimes violently in play. Expensive furniture can be damaged beyond repair. There are many scenarios where claws pose an issue to cat ownership. Complicating the matter are housing situations where only declawed cats are allowed, versus city or even statewide bans on this procedure.

Declaw surgery represents an instant, permanent solution to these problems; however, it is popularly held that a number of adverse conditions result from declawing, possibly including chronic pain for the cat. Pet owners need to understand all of the alternative options involved and what is scientifically known regarding this procedure. 

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Scratching posts can be very helpful for cats (and their humans).

Alternatives to Declaw Surgery to Try First

Scratching is a natural behavior of cats, which makes it difficult to modify. The usual goal is to transfer the cat's scratching instinct to a scratching post or other scratching toy; it is virtually impossible to control the desire to scratch completely. 

Many cats quickly adapt to alternative scratching surfaces, while other cats ignore them or simply use them as well as the furniture.

• Cats seem to prefer to scratch upholstery with a vertical drag to the fabric. Furniture can be upholstered in an unacceptable fabric, and a scratching post can be swathed in an appropriate fabric (rather than the usual carpet).
• Furniture can be made unacceptable by using plastic, double-stick tape, or aluminum foil to cover the target pieces.  Spray-on antiperspirants can be used on the furniture as a repellent.
• Treats or catnip can be used to attract the cat to the scratching post.
• The cat can be punished for furniture scratching attempts, but it is important that the cat cannot connect the punishment with the person administering it (otherwise the cat will simply learn not to scratch while that person is watching). Yelling, spanking, or shaking a can with pennies in it is too directly associated with the person rather than the act of scratching. A water squirt bottle is better, but only if the cat does not see where the squirt comes from. Booby traps can be set up using balloons. If mouse traps are used, it is vital that they be turned upside-down so that the cat cannot possibly catch a foot in the trap. Stacked traps can be set up so that they pop upward when tripped, making a surprising noise. In this way, punishment can still be carried out when the owner is not at home. The idea is to convince the cat that the furniture piece is not a good area for scratching and that the appropriate scratch toy can be used with no adverse experience.

Many owners are not excited about putting mousetraps up against their living room furniture, upholstering in aluminum foil, or decorating sofas and chairs with balloons. It is easy to see why a surgical solution would be attractive. Fortunately, there are more options.

The AVMA statement above is very specific about educating cat owners about alternatives to permanently removing claws. As mentioned, every family will have its own level of claw tolerance, and ultimately, the goal here is for the cat in question to live happily in a loving home.

Scratching Posts

Many cats quickly adapt to alternative scratching surfaces, while others ignore them or simply use them along with the furniture.

Attracting the Cat to the Scratching Surface

Select a scratching post, scratching pad or whatever structure is deemed appropriate for claw use. The cat may take to it promptly or you may need to use catnip or treats to encourage the cat to explore the new accessory. Some posts will include a bed area or dangling toys to promote cat usage. 

Discouraging Use of Furniture

If your cat is still using the furniture in addition to or instead of the post or scratch pad, here are some tips:

• Furniture can be made unacceptable using plastic, double-stick tape, or aluminum foil to cover the target pieces. Spray-on antiperspirants can be sprayed on the furniture as a repellent. Special products are actually made to create visually acceptable protection (panther-armor.com, fixzilla protector patches, or matchnpatch.com. There is also a scratching post that can be attached to a sofa at sofascratcher.com). Furniture damage can be repaired using fabric patch kits like those at matchnpatch.com.
• Consider a scratch pad or post with a different fabric. Some cats prefer carpet, some like rope, some like anything with a good vertical drag.
• Punishment is tricky. The cat can be punished for furniture scratching attempts but it is important that the cat not connect the punishment with the person administering it (otherwise the cat will simply learn not to scratch while that person is watching). Yelling, spanking, or shaking a can with pennies in it is too directly associated with the person rather than the act of scratching. A water squirt bottle is better but only if the cat does not see where the squirt comes from. Booby traps can be set up using balloons.  The idea is to convince the cat that the furniture piece is not a good area for scratching and that the appropriate scratch toy can be used without adverse experience.

Nail Trimming

For some cats, simply keeping the nails short is adequate control but many people do not know how to trim their cat's nails. In fact, the non-pigmented nail of the cat makes it easy to see where not to cut. The flat shape of the cat's nail makes the use of human nail trimmers very handy and possibly easier to use than the traditional clippers. 

Blunt Acrylic Nail Caps

acrylic nail caps cat Brooks

Acrylic nail caps. Photo by MarVistaVet

This is another popular method of controlling a scratching problem. Blunt acrylic nail caps are glued onto the cat's claws. The idea is that the blunt nail will not be sharp enough to cause damage. The veterinary staff will place the first set, but typically after that, the owner has the option of placing the caps at home.

What to Expect 

• The nail caps will wear off but not at the same time. After a couple of weeks some of the nails will be capped and others will not be.
• The nail caps must be replaced as the nail grows out. This can be a two-person job, and it may be that a visit to the vet's office may be needed to replace the nail caps.
• Some cats are not discouraged from scratching by these caps and are able to simply scratch larger holes in the upholstery.

In an effort to help educate cat owners on how to live happily with a claw-intact cat, the Feline Veterinary Medical Association has sponsored this page:

Surgical Declaw (Onychectomy)

Despite our best efforts to deflect scratching or decrease claw sharpness, sometimes nothing works, and an immediate, permanent solution is needed. It is important to consider that declaw surgery alters the cat permanently, and it should not be done if alternative methods are effective. The cat will need some special care during the post-operative healing period: special litter, pain medication, and some activity restriction as he/she will have tender feet for a week or two after surgery. The declawed cat should be kept indoors or outdoors only with supervision, as they will no longer have the ability to defend themselves against dogs or other cats.

There is much controversy regarding this procedure, which has been legally restricted in many areas. Few veterinary surgeries encounter as much bias as the declaw, and a political movement has emerged. Some concerns are valid and some are not as cut and dry.

Before making a decision, it is important to review the arguments and find your own perspective. Here are some of the issues.

• The declaw is viewed by many as performing an unethical surgical alteration of a companion animal for the sake of convenience. This is frequently countered by the idea that convenience is not the issue but that the relationship between the pet and its owner is at stake. If that relationship fails, a much bigger life quality issue is at stake, including cat relinquishment to the shelter, where euthanasia is a real possibility. There are many issues in play: the owner of the furniture may not be the owner of the cat. The owner might have developed a medical issue, making even the smallest claw contact serious. "Convenience" may not really be a fair description.
• Chronic pain may result from alterations in the foot anatomy, and long-term arthritis is promoted. While there may be truth to this, it is important to realize that 90% of cats over age 10 have arthritis in at least one joint.
• If possible, it is better to prevent arthritis in a cat's senior years. Arthritis and "wind-up" pain can be treated; euthanasia cannot.
• Some people believe that a cat’s indoor-only lifestyle is not humane because it is not natural, or an indoor-only lifestyle may be impractical because of other people or other animals coming and going into the home. A declawed cat should indeed become an indoor-only pet for its protection.
• There is a belief that the procedure is performed too casually and that alternatives are not properly given consideration. Regardless of one's feelings on whether to declaw a cat, the fact remains that we are talking about a permanent alteration with a potential for negative ramifications later on. This procedure is not to be done lightly and it is important to at least attempt some of the alternatives discussed above.

What's the Controversy All About?

Research has been conducted to distinguish truth from political propaganda. The AVMA has an excellent source where this research has been collated, and the concerns are addressed. Here are some conclusions, but feel free to examine the AVMA's information on your own.

Issue #1:  After declawing, a cat will likely become fearful or experience behavior changes, impairing an affectionate relationship with their owner.

Numerous scientific studies have been unable to document any behavior changes post-declaw. In fact, in one survey 70 percent of owners of declawed cats reported an improved relationship with their cat after the procedure.  

Issue #2:  A declawed cat cannot climb trees.

Declawed cats are not as effective at climbing trees as cats with claws, but declawing does not prevent tree climbing. That said, declawed cats should be kept indoors where they do not need claws to assist in self-defense. 

Issue #3:  A declawed cat cannot catch prey.

Declawed cats are less effective at catching prey than cats with claws, but declawing does not prevent effective hunting. 

Issue #4:  A declawed cat has lost its ability to defend itself and should not be allowed outside.

This one is true. A cat has lost an important part of its defense system without claws. Declawed cats should be housed indoors only. 

Issue #5:  Declawed cats are more likely to bite since they can no longer claw.

Declawed cats do not seem to realize they have no claws. They will continue to scratch ineffectively as if they did not know the difference. As for biting, there have been some studies that show an increased tendency to bite in declawed cats, while other studies have not shown that. There are several reasons why this information is hard to interpret. First, cats that are aggressive (even in play) are more likely to be declawed. After declawing, they continue to bite as they did before. As mentioned, the results of different studies have been conflicting.

Issue #6:  The post-operative period involves tremendous pain.

Pain management techniques have improved greatly in recent years and include regional nerve blocks, eliminating pain completely from the feet during the first few days of healing, fentanyl pain relief patches, as well as injectable and oral medications. This means that a declawed cat should be comfortable in the recovery period. 

That said, if proper pain relief is not practiced, the declawed cat will have sore feet after surgery. The larger the cat, the more discomfort there is and reluctance to bear weight.  

The recovery period should not last longer than a week or so. Healing should be complete by two weeks. Pain after this recovery period is not normal or expected in any way and if a declawed cat seems to be uncomfortable or lame, a recheck appointment is definitely needed. 

If you plan to declaw your cat, you may want to ask your veterinarian about the pain relief plan they expect to utilize so you know what to expect. 

Issue #7:  A declawed cat will not use a litter box again.

It is important that litter not get impacted in the declaw incisions during the recovery period. Shredded paper is the usual recommendation during recovery and some cats simply will not use shredded paper. Recycled newspaper litter is an excellent alternative. The only litter problem one might expect would be a lack of acceptance of a new litter during the recovery period. 

Is there likely to be a long-term litter box aversion? No studies show that declawed cats are likely to toilet inappropriately. Some studies show an increased risk, and some show no increased risk. An owner survey by Bennett and Houpt in 1988 actually found fewer behavior problems in declawed cats compared to claw-intact cats.

Issue #8:  Wind Up Pain

Wind-up pain is a neurological phenomenon that occurs when nerves become overly sensitive. A patient with wind-up pain will perceive pain from contact that would not normally cause pain. Wind-up pain is obviously undesirable and is caused by inadequate pain relief at the time of an injury. If that injury is a surgery, it is crucial to provide excellent pain relief to prevent sensitizing nerves. We do not know how much nerve activity during surgery is needed to cause wind-up pain. There is a theory that inadequate pain relief after declawing creates wind-up pain. If proper nerve blocks are used and pain medication is employed, this should not come into play but, sadly, pain relief is a relatively new field of study. Many cats still alive today were declawed when these medical techniques were not mainstream. Whether or not declawing has a particular problem with wind up pain has not been worked out.

Declaw Methods

Three techniques for permanent declaw surgery are commonly utilized: the "Resco" or Clipper Blade method, the Disarticulation method, and the Laser declaw. Below is a review of what is involved in each method, and you may wish to find out which method your veterinarian uses if you plan to have this surgery done.

Resco/Clipper Blade Method

This is probably the most common method used by veterinarians to declaw cats as it is associated with the fastest surgery time. It involves the use of a sterile nail trimmer to cut through the bone of the third digit of the toe. The cat loses the part of the bone from which the claw grows. The incision is either sewn closed with suture material or closed in surgical glue but a small piece of bone is retained to maintain the tendon connections to the toe. Some feel that maintaining the tendon connection is important in preventing future posture issues and associated pain. Others feel the bone remnant can be painful.  

What to Expect / Possible Complications

• Patients commonly spend at least one night in the hospital for bandaging, monitoring for bleeding, and pain assessment.
• Some blood spotting is normal from the toes during the first few days at home (beware if you have white carpeting).
• Shredded paper or pelleted recycled newspaper litter is recommended during the healing period. Conventional clay or sand litter can impact the tiny incisions and cause infections.
• Pain medication is essential, especially for larger or older cats who have more weight to carry on their tender healing toes. The amount of weight carried on the feet (the size of the cat) is the biggest factor in post-operative pain. Numerous regimens are employed for declaw pain control.
• Occasionally, not enough of the third bone is removed, and the claw regrows. When this occurs, infection is generally inevitable and the remaining bone must be removed. This is not a potential complication when the disarticulation method is employed.
• A study by Martell-Moran et al published in the Journal of Feline Medicine and Surgery in 2017 found that cats declawed with this method had more back pain later in life than disarticulated cats or claw intact cats. 

Disarticulation Method

This procedure is a bit more difficult to master as it involves the delicate disconnection of all the tiny ligaments holding the third bone in place. The entire third bone is removed intact, whereas, in the Resco method, the bone is cut through, leaving a small piece behind.

What to Expect / Possible Complications

• Because the entire third bone is removed, there is a zero possibility of the claw growing back; however, the cut ligaments allow for a subtle drop in the way the foot is held. Most owners do not notice this change in posture, but there is speculation as to whether there are negative ramifications to this change.
• Two nights in the hospital are required for this procedure (one night with bandages and one without).
• Some spotting of blood from the toes is normal during the first few days at home (be aware of this with white carpeting).
• Shredded paper or pelleted recycled newspaper litter is recommended for 10 days after surgery. Conventional clay or sand litter can impact the tiny incisions and cause infections.
• Pain medication is a good idea, especially for larger or older cats. The amount of weight carried on the feet (the size of the cat) is the biggest factor in post-operative pain. I recommend the use of the fentanyl patch for post-op pain control as well as pre-operative local blocks to the feet for pain control.
• Occasionally not enough of the third bone is removed and the claw regrows. When this occurs, infection is generally inevitable and the remaining bone must be removed.
• If the ungual crest of the nail is not removed (the area from which the claw grows), the claw may be able to partly grow back and a second surgery will be needed.

The Laser Declaw: Another Way to Disarticulate

Recently, the laser declaw has received a great deal of attention. In this surgery, a laser rather than a scalpel blade is used to disarticulate the third toe bone. Advantages of laser surgery include virtually no bleeding during surgery or afterward, possibly less post-operative pain, and, in many cases, no bandages.

The downside is the expense of the equipment. The cost of the laser equipment itself is $20,000 to $40,000. To justify such an expense, the laser must be able to generate substantial revenue for the hospital.This means that the cost of the laser declaw to the pet owner is likely to exceed the price of the conventional declaw significantly.  

Tendonectomy: A Surgical Alternative to Declawing

This surgical procedure has emerged as an alternative to the bone-removing declaws. Here, a tendon is cut on the underside of each toe to prevent grasping motions. The claws remain but the cat cannot extend them.

What to Expect / Possible Complications

• Because the incisions needed for this procedure are so small, the recovery is minimal. No bandages, no special litter, no blood spots. There are usually no stitches to remove, and the tiny incisions are closed with surgical glue.
• Because the cat can no longer make grasping motions, the claws will naturally grow circularly into the foot pads causing pain and infection unless the owner can trim the nails regularly. The tendonectomy patient will require life-long regular nail-clipping. This may not be practical in an aggressive cat and may not be the right choice for an owner seeking a low-maintenance pet.
• The August 1, 1998 issue of the Journal of the American Veterinary Medical Association reports a study to compare the long- and short-term complications of tendonectomy vs. those of traditional declaw. Owner satisfaction with both procedures was also measured. While cats who received the tendonectomy showed significantly lower pain scores immediately postoperatively, both procedures showed an equal frequency of other complications (bleeding, lameness, and infection). The number of days it took for a cat to walk normally again was not different between the declawed cats and the tendonectomy cats.
• There was no significant difference between the percentage of owners satisfied with declaw and the percentage of owners satisfied with tendonectomy. In a 2001 survey, more people were satisfied with the declaw over tendonectomy.

A study by Gaskin et al in 2024, looked at 42 cats who were painful years after declaw (based on response to pain treatment). These particular cats had taken to biting and/or not using the litter box reliably. All 42 cats responded to tendonectomy. This suggests that a cat with chronic post-declaw pain could have pain relieved with a second surgery, but it also brings up the question of how many surgeries a cat should undergo simply to prevent normal claw use.

New Important Information

In October 2025, the state of California passed a statewide declaw ban. New York, Maryland, and numerous cities around the U.S. have passed similar bans. If you wish to have a cat declawed, travel may be involved. Please be aware of local ordinances.